Blog for ZREA

Here is a letter written by Alain Zoller, one of the world best pilot for piloting. He has been testing paragliders since 1989, a man with a lot of experience. Voila:

Open letter - Where we goes with Paragliding Sport

Air Turquoise - Alain Zoller point of view; maybe to say loud what lot of professional knows, but doesn't want see the true way.

Introduction After sad competition at Piedrahita in July 2011, CIVL decide to stop Paragliding Open Class for next competition. Quite a lot of Federation agreed and was quite happy, at least to have certified gliders in competition which means more safer competitions(?) . Since July some manufacturers have worked persistent to get their previous competition gliders into certification system. In November 2011, it was without count of pugnacity of manufacturers work, we can see the first "Gun" glider ready for certification flight test. It was quite strange situation to have under our hands the first two and a half liners for test.

As test laboratory, we were thinking a lot when first comp glider arrived for the certification if it was good way to do it? When we tested it, we discover that this kind of gliders can be really in the border line of the standard, but in fact they fulfill EN & LTF requirement in category D.

The main question was, should we continue to certify such glider? Is it a good way? So technical it is, it's more the skill of the test pilot can be able to perform the maneuvers? In fact it was our job to perform the tests after the requirements until we got more experienced, but the same questions were more demanding right after my accident?

The situation
After my accident, Randi toke in charge to have a big reflection between test laboratories and Federations. Randi asked them to stop immediately the process of these gliders, and to react as fast as possible for to save our Sport. She proposed to stop certification on such gliders, even all D categories for to have time think about the next steps.
We'd a round table meeting beginning of December between test houses (DHV - Academy - Air Turquoise, Aerotest & PMA) in Austria. This meeting was scheduled from long time ago and we (Air Turquoise) added new points in the agenda about EN/LTF D category and/or create a special class for competition gliders.
During the meeting we passed through quite easily the agenda, we discussed little bit about the situation of new revolution of D class...There were few arguments for or against to add limits of EN D, but the speech was quite short and nobody wish to take responsibility or thinking it was necessary to react at this situation. Meeting arguments were:

"The certification system has not the power to issue technical limits like aspect ratio or speed. This is up to the manufacturers and competition organizers. The pilots have to realize that within the EN-D category there is a wide range of gliders for different levels of pilots. Gliders, which are designed to be used only by the most skilled pilots in top level competitions and the traditional style EN-D gliders as we have known them since many years for the more recreational pilots." The description for pilot level to fly with an EN-D glider is defined in the norm: quote from EN-926/2:

Paragliders with demanding flying characteristics and potentially violent reactions to turbulence and pilot errors. Recovery to normal flight requires precise pilot input.
Designed for pilots well practiced in recovery techniques, who fly very actively, have significant experience of flying in turbulent conditions, and who accept the implications of flying such a wing.

I understand this brief summary, is not at the test houses to have technical issue for limiting EN/LTF classes and in same time PMA keep their eyes closed behind the EN definition. The definition sentences was made for to keep open a kind of good performance gliders, but never to open the doors at such of "Gun" as we knows today. I agree, test houses have to respect the standard and not make policies of manufacturers, same as PMA they should look after her organization and let test houses doing them job. Now it's seems that PMA try to be supervisor of test houses, they try to defend LTF system instead caring about EN & LTF, this is just not acceptable. They should promote mainly the European norm and then after LTF requirement for Germany ONLY. We also discover during this meeting, they're some differences between test houses, especially how to interpret the both standards (EN&LTF). The summary was; in Germany, test houses doesn't take care about EN, they just give EN certification without to perform strictly the requirements. We even heard that someone asked to stop EN tests, because nobody is supervising them as long as accreditation system is not established (this will audit the test houses), they also meaning LTF tests are supervised by the German LBA. It was also returned a rumor told a possible reason why some of the new hot EN D wings will maybe not get LTF??? -Very nice to return to rumors; and those who said that just forgot that, Air Turquoise is a serious company, if you doing ISO you're audited every year and costs lot more money than LBA. LBA is auditing only every two years. The reason why someone says that EN should be stopped it is because we don't have any technical audits, but bear in mind neither do LTF. In fact audits are just administration, nobody can be able or have the knowledge to be real technical expert for audit. Paraglider accidents are happening from technical part, never by administration. Normal procedure is to follow EN and LTF, without any preference just perform all maneuvers with repetitions (to be sure maneuver is repeatable), but of some point there are differences between both standards. This kind of technical details scares me when I heard about. Fortunately this is not so much visible at the end on the final product, but we can always thinking about and to be in the doubt. Who is responsible to react ASAP when security is at stake? At least not PMA, maybe test houses can share the experience, but how? In fact the Federations through EHPU should be the right interlocutor, they're aware of the accident statistics, it's them they should discuss with Insurance and work hard to avoid our sport not considering as "Risky Sport" and at the end. The federations, they should defend interest of their members, it's also their job to give the security line at competition.

This was the target of Martin Scheel by CIVL to find a kind of "Certification" system for comp gliders, even to create a new class how can be accept as European Standard, but under the pressure from manufacturers (PMA) his first idea was put in dungeon and Martin should do a kind of compromise as we know the result today. He and his working group did the best for security in competition and at the end it's almost Martin's fault that the accidents happened last year, this is not fair.
About certification now it's more as 6 years we work on EN 926-2 for flight test with classification A-B-C-D. Since 17.12.2009 become same classification in Germany with new LTF, even if some maneuver are not strictly the same at least Paragliding world can finally speak same language about classification. Unfortunately what was created with these classes begin to be obsolete and we can even see some glider with 6.8 aspect ratio in category C!!!
I remember end of 2010 and beginning of 2011 we were quite scared and in doubt to be able to certify such of glider in D category. Until we started with new "Gun" or new technology the classes was clearly defining for the level of every type of skill of pilot. Now it seems that every classes should be pushing down from one level and that doesn't correspond at all at the definition of the standard, in fact we don't need and don't want that.

Two points of view from of this situation; 1st, it's fantastic to see how manufacturer can be able to develop and push forward performance, speed and security. 2nd, make me afraid how this performance running, more aspect ration and more speed. That is the good way? We should thinking that 70-80% of pilots doesn't have possibilities to fly often, the landing fields getting fewer and smaller and with more performance of gliders, the more difficult for normal pilots who can manage and steer properly their gliders, mainly pilots want to fly for fun and take pleasure. Every professional like Instructors, Schools, Manufacturers, Test houses and for sure Federations live and exist because of these 70-80% pleasure pilots. I feel, we start to sawing the branch on which we sit on.

Lot of work and priority is done for these 70-80% of pilots, but I think we spend too much time on the performance, competition, for meeting concerning "High Level", chats, emails and shouting for just small minority of competitors. The statistic says only around 2% of pilots are competitors, even less in PWCA or CIVL competitions, maybe around 100 to 120 pilots??? I don't understand all this energy for so few pilots, and the worse to finality is like with lot of sports, we don't have any money or Press coverage for the pilot who wins the title… that make pleasure only the scene, but it has been this way from the beginning and will be like this in the future. For sure we cannot and is not the target to be popular as Football or Tennis.

Conclusion Many points deserve to be thinking thoroughly and maybe discussed:

We need to keep competition, this is the development of our sport. The new technologies arrive on the market after experimentation in competition. In the other hands, why we want certified comp glider without any intervention from the pilot?
That why we need to thinking about:

1.To create a new class for comp glider. Doesn't matter the name if is "Open Class" or "Competition Class" or "Class E" etc… but we need to have a specific category for Gun Gliders.

2.To say to EHPU, now is the time to take decision and to be the real "Chairman" of the Paragliding scene.
3.Stop to just listen what Germany say, it's not the center of the world, we've lot of specialist everywhere and everybody can be listen to, doesn't matter which country or Federation.

4.To find a solution for to calibrate test houses, that can be also a target of EHPU but far away not PMA
5.At the end, how will take responsibility when pilot will died within competition and/or for leisure sport?

I'm not angry concerning my accident, but just about the way how paragliding going, about responsibility, seems no body want to take responsibility of security.
I just relate some point after 25 years experience with certification for to explain my point of view when I see how the development of our sport is at this day. I like my job and I'll continue to work as clean as possible and as close as possible of the requirement. Probably some people will be not agree of me, even will thinking totally opposite, but it's normal we're in democracy. I don't want convince anybody, take this letter just like "my personal Open Letter". Some time is nice to say out loud what's on your mind and not speaking about rumours to be true or not. Also to have a critical eye on the evolution. Anyway, flying will continue to be a dream of many pilots, it doesn't matter how many kilometres or the altitudes. Just to share a flight memories together with friends and discuss about our personal achievements, this is nice thing bout paragliding and not everybody can understand that. Only the guys who flies will do. That's why it's so marvellous.


Take care and fly safe
Alain

-Nine days have passed, I haven't really recognized.
I didn't see the happening of the accident, I arrived when I saw a glider floating in the lake. As soon as I understood something was wrong, my heart stopped and I didn't breath. I ran as fast as I could, I felt my legs couldn't go any faster...It was like in a nightmare; you run and run, but not going anywhere.
Alain tested a high-end performance glider (hereafter shortened to "comp-wing") when he lost control of the glider, and crashed into the water with huge force. Claude, ZREA's hero, was just beside with the boat and rescued Alain. Without Claude, the outcome would have been much different. There were many elements present the lucky outcome; like boat+driver, water, lifejacket, type of harness, helmet, knife, Rega man on the place, fast response of ambulance. Thanks to all of those elements.

The injuries of Alain; broken shoulder-blade (scapula), leaking spleen, fraction in L3 and bruised muscles. Alain will be 100% well after the recovery. Read more here and here, Air Turquoise website.

The long telephone calls
All the team were very affected of this accident, but we knew we had to put the emotional part away and do something about the last evolution of certifying comp-wing. Last week I spoke with several persons inside CIVL and PWCA, who dealing with competition. CIVL decided last summer to only use certified gliders in competition in 2012. I also spoke with some manufacturers, SHV-FSVL (Swiss federation) and test laboratories; everyone agreed on that these gliders doesn't belong into the certification system we have today (EN standard). One of them already saw this problem months ago, (how to test it?), but there were no action taken to stop this evolution. After Coupe Icare in St.Hilaire, Alain and I were very sceptical to certify comp-wing, how could it be possible to collapse such a wing (especially in full speed)? -And at which behaviour? The idea to test it was surreal.

- - -

The period from Coupe Icare (end of September) and till the accident has gone too fast. End of October Alain tried the first brand of comp wing, he throw the rescue, weeks after he tried another one, he couldn't take off, the third brand, the lines were broken and the fourth THE accident..... It is not easy to say why we continued to test comp-wings. We shouldn't have stopped before. Why we needed an accident to stop this nonsense? -It is only us to blame.


Where are we now?

Test laboratories have temporarily agreed to stop certifying comp-wing (immediately) until a round table meeting takes place. We had already planned a round table meeting 9th of December with PMA and LBA test laboratories (Air Turquoise, DHV and European Academy) months ago, so I thought it would be nice opportunity to speak about the last evolution on this meeting, but PMA is not agree to change the agenda. This is hard to believe; we have something urgent to speak about and PMA are not willing to change. Well, I am not giving up, I have few days to convince PMA; -I would like to speak about comp-wings and EN D gliders next Friday. I think it is important for all concerned parties. To postpone these two matters will only make thing worse.

update 05.12.11, PMA agreed to change the agenda. Happy face!!!!

Update 07.12.11, I have a big doubt that we will not find any solution. The agenda and the participants are not clear...

Safety Most important for Air Turquoise is to work for the safety on our sport. It is our job to test and afterwards classify gliders. It is a hard job for a test pilot, not every glider behaves nicely. Sometimes we have to make difficult decisions, only because we care... Probably some pilots will not understand why we wont certify comp-wings, but with the time they will see this was the right decision. It is important that all pilots must take responsibility about their skill and think about why you want to expose yourself for unnecessarily risks. Take precautions, study the weather and follow your fellows advice are few elements to care about. Normally we(pilots) shouldn't ending up throwing the rescue-chute at all, then we have coming in a situation we couldn't handle. =>We didn't take the necessarily precautions. -We are doing this sport for fun, enjoying the air, enjoying the freedom and not for to crash on the ground. So lets do "the happy landings". Even from the beginning of certification, it hasn't and will not stop accidents, the pilots can!!!

Final word
I am writing this mostly for myself, and I know from previous accidents that everybody wants to know everything about it. So ok, here was a small info.


We, Alain and I want to thank you all for nice support, nice words and best wishes for fast recovery. This makes our days brighter. We hope we can find the time to thank you personally (all of you).

Today, I finally I could finish my story about my trip in Nepal. It might seems a bit long, but for me it is important to tell in this way. Sure it could have been much longer, cause there are many stories I haven't told (yet). I hope the untolded stories will stay in my head forever.
-I know I haven't told the story about "Ever"...well another time maybe! Read my story in previous post (or here). I will be very busy the next months or so...so, not much time to write more

IT is two weeks ago I return from Nepal, but I had too much going on that I could find the time to write a story. Though, is not easy to begin; there is so much to tell. Overall it was the best travelling EVER!!! (The word EVER we were using a lot during trekking).
Actually it was with coincidence I went there; in august when I was in the North of Norway, my sister and I spoke about a bicycling trip to Cuba in end of autumn. This trip was full booked and I suggested trekking in Nepal instead and “voila” suddenly we booked the tickets. Only trip that was available was trekking south of Annapurna, AND 6th of October departure time. Wow, short notice, but in same time very exciting. Two days after boyfriend to Maria also booked the tickets. Cool, 3 Norwegians on the way to Nepal!!!
Day 0 - To Denmark
I went to Copenhagen to spend one night there, because the travel agency, Topas a Danish company, started the travelling the day after from Copenhagen.
I know I could I have booked the flight tickets differently, but it nice to travelling together with the Danish group and my sister.

Day 1 - To Singapore
Already in the Check-in queue I could feel something going on in my body. Ohhh, I was on my way to Nepal. I have dreamt about it for so long, at least more than 10 years! And now I was standing there with hundreds of butterflies in my stomach, it was hard to believe it. We used Singapore Airlines and of course we went to Singapore, 11 hours in the plane. Half way we could see on the small TV screen we were above New Delhi. It was very frustrating, why go all the way to Singapore and then back the same way for to land in Kathmandu. Grrr, didn’t make any sense, about 10 hours in the plane “for nothing”. Well for nothing I don’t know; then we had the possibility to discover Singapore airport for 4 hours!!! In the positive way, the airport is quite well organized, free internet (without login), shower possibilities, orchids garden, outdoors terrace – sunflower garden, nice restaurants, bars, shops and top of that free charging of mobile. Super cool!

Day 2 - Arriving Kathmandu
We are landing in Kathmandu, already in the airport the atmosphere felt much different of what I am used to. I was so exciting to discover this atmosphere. Before we picked up the luggage we were queuing for long time in the VISA queue only to find out that we had to fill out one more form. So we did the form and we had to re-begin the queue. Hoo, one of the atmospheres in Nepal I guess. Finally finished the queue we did get the VISA (juuhuuu) and then we went for the luggage. All luggages we founded in one big hill, there were some guys trying to help finding our luggage, but I had to find by myself. Afterwards this guy wanted 5 dollars for that!!! -Hoo, another “nice” atmosphere. Okey they are very poor people, but they don’t need money for doing nothing? There were one advice for Nepal, never give money to beggars (more about that later).
Outside the airport was little chaotic, we didn’t know which group we should join. After going forward and back we found our group and our buss. Now we met our travel guide from Topas and our local main guide from Exodus. We were sitting in the buss; every luggage on the roof of the buss, the heat stroked us and the smell of something unusual exotic.
We did accommodate in hotel Shikta in Thamel, a popular and touristic district in Kathmandu. Already I felt a bit tired, but our travel guide Kitti, suggested that the whole group had a small walk in Thamel to get to know the area a bit. She gave us nice advices how to react against the locals and of which shops should be avoided (if you want real thing). After this roundtrip I had a small rest in the hotelroom before Maria (my sister), Haakon and I went for a beer, we remembered to pass an Irish pub with Kitti, so we went there. On the way we went to a bank-automat and took out 20’000 Nepalese Rupee (NPR). Hoo, we felt very rich for a while, but in fact it is only 230 CHF. There were a festival going on in Nepal, very end of the festival, and we were lucky to see a small part of that. The little we saw was just fantastic! However the spectacle contained male only…? At the Irish pub they didn’t had any Irish beer, so Ok then, a Nepalese beer will also do the job! But hey, there were playing music of U2, so a bit Irish we felt!
The beer in Nepal is quite expensive, but the meal is less expensive than the beer. Great!!! The beer was about 5 CHF (0.65 liter). A typical meal we ate; soup, main plate and beer about 800 NPR (9-10 CHF).
After couple of beers, we met the group and we ate together at the Kilroys. For the first time we tasted typical Nepalese food. I ate Dal Bhat, and it was love at first sight. It contains of soup of lenses, vegetables (kind of wok), rice, chili and kind of nepalese bread. It tasted so good and the aroma so intense, so I am planning to cook it by myself here at home.

Day 3 - Sightseeing Katmandu
Sightseeing in Kathmandu. The whole group decided for a guiding tour to the most typical tourist places. I am not a big fan of those places, but with a guide it could be ok.
First stop was Swayambhu temple on the top of a hill which is above the town of Kathmandu. This temple is also called Monkey temple because of all monkeys playing around, here are many temples from Buddhism and Hinduism religions. The guide however, was a disaster. His voice was so weak, we couldn’t hear. We had to be standing less than 0.5 m away to hear him, and with a group of nearly 20 are not so easy. BUT he did the best as he could and it was a lovely day, blue skies, warm and surrounded with nice people. Next stop was Pashupati (Devpattan), very strange place. Here are the salesman much more aggressive than in the center or at Swayambhu. Personally I don’t like salesman like this, but most strange thing was the cremation of Hindu people just across the river. We, tourists, could watch the whole ceremony, which took about 5 hours, just 50 meters away the grieving family (?????). And it is very popular “event” for the tourists. 200 m further (higher) in the river is the cremation place for rich and important people. Here we could see couple of men washing gold from the river… gold teeth! Oh my goodness. The cremation process is as followed: woods are collected on a platform, the dead body placed on the top of it wrapped in the clothes, the body is burned. The closest family only stays for less than one hours, one man of this family is watching the whole burning process and also watch that all the ashes is brushed into the river.
It is said that the man (or boy) who do the preparation, brushes the ashes into the river and clean the platform for next cremation that this job is not bringing them good luck. They are also feeling ashamed to tell anybody about their job, some even not telling their closest family.
Afterwards we went to Boudhanath Temple. This place is a Buddha place and it is very peaceful and quiet. Remember always to walk clockwise…we walked anticlockwise (SORRY!!!).
We also attended in a Buddhism ceremony, it was very special. There were some procedure I didn’t understood; probably others from my group have better explanation. BUT finally this ceremony was finished and people flowed around the “priest” so he could pray for them and give the blessing. I also tried to bend my head when the priest passed me, but I didn’t get any blessing…? A car outside were waiting for him and policemen escorted him out of the area. Hoo, I felt I had seen something very huge, I am not sure what.
The day passed by, and we had lovely time in Kathmandu. We had also the main briefing about the trekking in the afternoon and we were told what to bring with us and what to leave behind at the hotel. Wow, beginning of the real thing.

Day 4 - On the road to Nayapul
I haven’t spoken about the traffic in Nepal yet, now it’s time: First of all, you can hire a car but it includes a local driver. After a while I understood why, it takes ages to understand the driving system. Simply, the traffic is horrible; so many cars, so many crazy drivers, walking people, animals and all kind of transport on the roads. Also the standard of the roads aren’t comparable of what we are used with, the standard is low (-) (-) (-). –No more complaining about European roads! More than once I have though “IT WAS” my last moment when we drove. -When you see a heavy truck coming against you and the buss you are sitting in is in the same lane as the truck while passing another car: You are screaming and seconds after you just realize that the buss popped in just in front of the passing car and millimeters from the truck. I learned fast not to watch ahead (through front window), only by side windows to avoid heart attacks. You back should also be strong, because these bumpy roads are not made for weak persons. Once we bumped so hard that we were lifting 10cm from the seats, and for sure the busses don’t have any dampers.
…
We drove from Kathmandu to Nayapul (new Bridge), where we started the trek. It was about 7 hours drive, and I felt very exhausted and actually my legs hurting only by sitting in the buss on the bumpy roads. Well it was a kind of funny and absolutely new experience for me. Anyway, we had marvelous view to the mountains, farmers, villages, children, landscape, flowers, green fields and threes. It was absolutely stunning view.
We arrived Nayapul “quite” well and started the short walk to Birethanti where we spent the first night on trek.

Day 5 - Birethanti-Tirkedungha-Ulleri (1960m)
We woke up early packed our bag which the porters were carrying for us; they started their walk right after. Afterwards we ate the breakfast and then we filled our bottles with filtered water. And ready to go. While walking up the valley we followed the river; we saw waterfalls, farmer houses, farming of fish in the river and of course the landscape was very beautiful. I felt I didn’t have enough time to absorb everything. We also stopped by a school project and made a donation. In return we got a red mark between our eyes (forehead) and red flower behind the ear. Well, we could see who had donated. The red mark should bring us good luck.
Slowly we got higher and finally we arrived to Tirkedungha. Here we ate fantastic lunch and we had more than one hour break where we relaxed or did the shopping.
After the break we crossed the bridge and started the 3000 steps, stairs made of stones, up to the next teahouse and second night on the trek. Believe me it was hard, also because the heat was outstanding. I can not remember I have sweated so much, it felt like I made shower in my own sweat.
In the afternoon we arrived to Ulleri and we could all take a kind of “warm” shower. Wow, that was heaven. First of all we had the welcome tea and we could see small part of the mountain behind the clouds, Annapurna South. Yeah, finally a real mountain in sight!
After dinner, Haakon, Maria and I went for a small evening walk in the moonlight. We found a swing and of course we had to try it. It is amazing good swing, it is made of 4 long bamboo sticks (about 20 meters?) and on top of it a shorter stick across the two and two of the 4 bamboo sticks. From the short stick, 2 long ropes hanging down for us to play. Juhuu lets rock’n roll in the Nepal swing. The first day on trek had made us tired and we all went to bed quite early.

Day 6 - To Ghorepani - Deurali pass (2834m)
I woke up early and I just turned my head for to see Annapurna South the royal highness! What a view from my bed, looking out of the window! A moment I felt very emotional and I felt very privileged. I thanked my sister and my self that I was on this trip. I have never in my life discovered so beautiful moment (except from my wedding day) and I wanted to freeze it. Well, I was on the trek with a group and I had to move on. I packed my bag, delivered it to the porters, ate my breakfast, filled up my bottles and started walking…the daily routine.
Since we left Kathmandu we got less comfort which means very thing mattress for to sleep on, cold showers, piiiiiip toilets…., less electricity and mobile coverage, but in the same time we discovered so many beautiful moments and everywhere we met friendly Nepalese people. For example, every morning we were waked up by our guides with a lovely warm cup of tea. What a nice gesture. -Thanks you guys!

On the way to Ghorepani, I discovered new flora, I saw (for example), playing children, jungle, rivers and waterfalls, DHL donkeys and so on. It was mediation for me to see all these new things, the smells and the sounds, and the same time the nice landscape passed by as in a slow motion movie. This was mine “National Geographic” or this was mine “Mantra”. During my trek, I had the time to think about my life and about every small coincidence had happened to me. –This is who I am right now.
-To make this day shorter; we arrived well to the Deurali pass and we spent the night in Top Hill teahouse, on the way to Poon Hill. We felt the air was thinner and it was colder. The teahouse had a big closed fireplace in the middle of the room, to warm up the guests and to dry the clothes. Haakon, Maria and I went down to the “center” to check the stores and we had s “small” bottle of Everest. I found many interesting books here, and I decided to buy books when I arrived to Pokhara. As normal everyone in the group ate the evening dinner together and planned the next trekking day. Every dinner it was very confusing when the local guides arrived with the meals; often we didn’t remembered what we have ordered or it was difficult to understand what the guide said. So Kitti had collected the “unknown” meals until one of us realized it was ours. –It was like this every day (he he).
Finally in the bed we could dream about Poon Hill the day after…

Day 7 Poon Hill (3193m)
Early morning at 5 am outside the teahouse ready to go for Poon Hill. With help of flash light and the guides we started to walk. Slowly slowly upwards, slowly also because there were hundreds of other on the path. Maria didn't had flashlight so she walked between me and Haakon. In less than one hour we were on the top. Gradually we could see the sunrise and the colours started to appears and the view getting more visible. It was like a fairytale; snowy summits, view 360 degrees and blue sky, a magic moment. Summits like; Dhaulagiri II, III, IV, V all four summits are between 7618-7751m, Dhaulagiri 8172 m, Nilgiri 7061m, Annapurna I 8091 m, Annapurna South 7219m, Gangapurna 7455m and Machhapuchhre 6997m (Fishtail). Here on Poon Hill I got my nickname; Gandhi, cause I was lost from my group when a group picture token place, our dearest guide Chhowang running around and called after me: Gandhi ! Gandhi! After long time I was found and we could take the picture! Gandhi, I am not sure who Chhowang was referring to; if it was Mohandas Gandhi or Indira Gandhi. Anyhow, it is an honour to be called Gandhi. I learned later that Randi meant something "not good", I wasn't able to find out what exactly.

...
After returning to Top Hill for a quick breakfast we prepared a new walking day on the other side of the pass, stairs downhill walking. We stopped in Chittre for lunch and we all had to lay down on the lawn for a small nap or just to relax a bit. After lunch we continued to Sikha, and again we passed fantastic landscape, colourful people and beautiful view to Dhaulagiri. Me and Ove checked out some take-off on the other side of the valley and dreamed about a flight passage to Dhaulagiri. Ove is an old sailplane pilot. It was easy to talk with him, because we had something common to talk about; the flight!!! In Sikha we made a stamp in our trekking permit, it is a police checkpoint. Here we also slept for the night. I had to share room with Maria and Haakon at room number 1.

Day 8 - Downhill to Tatopani (1100m)
Sikha wasn't the best place to stay, more primitive than other places we were. I didn't sleep well here, I was concerned about all spiders in the room...hey, it was many!!! Two of our group members got sick from the dinner day before, and they were vomiting all night long. Both were able to continue the trek, but were weak. A woman got problem with the knee the day before while walking down the steps, it got twisted, so she was in big pain. Therefore a jeep was ordered. She couldn't have been more lucky because the (a kind of) road started just below Sikha, otherwise a horse would have been used. We others were still vigorous and rapid, well we had a kind of pain in the back-side of legs of all the steps downhill, but we were strong. We ate lunch at Anita's lodge, lovely host and she also had a beautiful kitchen garden. The hospitality was enormous and we felt much relaxed here. We discovered a huge butterfly here, but it was almost impossible to catch it with camera. After eating we were invited inside to see a local dance with one of the kid and our guide Chhowang.
Before we left Sikha Bente, Peter, Maria and I tried to carry the porters bags only by head/neck. Ohhh, it was difficult, it was hurting a lot in my neck. After this I started to carry more of my stuff in my backpack. After lunch on the way down we stopped to help a local farmer to carry stones (with our head), he was going to make a resting place for travellers. This time was little bit more easier, because it wasn't so loaded. The legs started to hurt more and we were looking forward to come to Tatopani. Right before Tatopani we crossed the river Kali Ghandaki via suspension bridge. Hooo, far way down to the river, it was a bit exciting to cross it. In Tatopani we found our teahouse, Dhaulagiri!!! We were lodged into small huts and my sister and I shared the bathroom with only two others. Nice. Well, nice I don't know; I felt the standard was very low, the room was humid and bathroom dirty. And no hot water in the shower, "tatopani" means hot-water, so at least I expected a hot shower. Brr.

Day 9 - Rest day in Tatopani
It was good to rest a day, because my legs were hurting after 2 days of downhill walking. I visited the internet café, but the electricity went off and I popped in several times to check if the it was back. The owner told me that the electricity could be gone for an hour, hours, days or weeks, so I wasn't so optimistic to continue my emails.
Tatopani has also a hot water springs, in the past it was a hub for many directions and a commerce site. It even has a huge buss stop. Further up in the valley, world deepest valley with 6000 m mountain both sides. I did little shopping here like home-made belt and a Tibetan singing bowl. When practising Buddhist, a signal with this bowl it indicates a start and an end of meditation. My bowl has also a Tibetan mantra on it.
Maria, Haakon and I visit the town and we also had our first taste of local wine (or beer), chhaang. The days before we tasted something called Raski, but I preferred the Chhang.

Day 10 - Up again to Chittre (2390m)
Amazing warm day for walking. My black cotton t-shirt got "nice" white stripes made of my body salt. Some said it looks like a map over Annapurna region...tjihii. After steady walking we arrived to Chittre where we spent the night. The view was fantastic, we saw Dhaulagiri and Annapurna from Chittre. Second time on this trek I got a kind of hot water when showering. You have no idea how nice it felt. I washed my trekking socks and t-shirts and hung them up for drying, hand-washed of course.

Day 11 - To Tadapani
Not so many meters higher that day, but walking up and down on small steep paths/trails aren't so simple. After Chittre we walked through a jungle and for the first time we saw monkeys. There weren't other people on this path, because the it wasn't marked on the map, nice and quite for us. It was so beautiful here, flowers, trees and other plants. One tree has several leaves which doesn't belong to him, the leaves are stealing the strength from this tree. Leaves has a kind of yellow/orange colour and in the sunlight it looks marvellous! Like a golden tree. Up to the pass and Ban Thanti we ate lunch. Volunteers could climb to a viewpoint a panorama view to mountains, but today it was a bit foggy so nobody went. Many did their shopping here while we others were resting. Now we went steep down and for the first and last time I was guiding....but I took wrong path, so I lost my job :-) Again we passed beautiful landscape, which will always stay in memory. Right before Tadapani (means steep water), we saw the monkeys for second time and much closer than before. It is amazing how they are moving in the trees. It is easy so recognize because where the monkeys are; the whole tree is shaking when a monkey took rate and jumped. The last stairs up to Tadapani was hard, but I was almost running because I couldn't wait to see the view. Little disappointed because it was cloudy, but it was possible to see mountains in between. Great! It was a great atmosphere in the restaurant, and we also drunk a bit too much. We learned the Danish to sing Norwegian drinking songs...with a little correction from Kitti, the drinking song become better.

golden tree

Day 12 - To Ghandruk (a kiss - a moment)
This was one of the mornings I will never forget. The view from Tadapani was a-more-closer-view to the mountains. We were almost in them, surrounded by them; majestic mountains. We watched them carefully from the terrace, knowing it could be long time until next time (trek comes to an end). Suddenly Maria saw something in the forest, first thought it was a cat. I also saw it, then Maria said it was a monkey. Wow, so close? We popped up fetch the camera and walked slowly against the forest. It was not only one, it was a whole bunch of them. Long time we didn't dare to move in the same time tried to take the nicest photos. It wasn't easy because the monkey moved all the time, so we sneaked closer and closer. Finally we were just 10 m away from them. Wow, fantastic. They jumped from tree to tree, while some of them just sitting down and watched us. The youngest monkey were already gone (further in the forest), while the oldest checking the whole situation. I think they realized we weren't a danger for them. If it wasn't for that we had to move on, I probably would have stayed much longer. It was a "Grey Langur" monkeys. Grey, white head and black face.
Breakfast, filled the bottles and on the road again. Again we walked through a jungle. Again we had the chance to see Langur monkeys, Haakon almost got peed by a monkey who sat in the top of the tree. He he, it could have been funny :-)

On the way down we met some porters who carried a huge load, of mattresses. I hope they will change into new mattress in the teahouse, cause the ones we slept on was very thin. In one tea-break, where I bought the calendar I wrote Norway under the Norwegian flag the owner had painted. He had painted flags from many countries and he was pleased for a little help!
We arrived Ghandruk quite early and we ate late lunch here in our hotel (teahouse) Milan! This was luxurious hotel compare to other places on the trek, the bathroom was huge and clean, even hot water. The bedrooms were better and also the mattresses. After a little rest I had a walk in Ghandruk. It was beautiful place, the "streets" were steep and narrow, nice atmosphere. There was a school on the bottom of the village and I watched the children playing football on the playground. I was sitting in the stairs watching them when 3 small girls came up to me, passing me, but suddenly one of them gave me a huge kiss on the cheek. I was bewildered and surprised about the kiss, and I couldn't say anything. Not even "Dhanyabaad" (thank you in nepali). I followed them by eyes and waved to them when they left out of the sight. Hooo, I felt so happy, grateful and relaxed, I almost had tears in my eyes. -And now I have to leave the country?! Many thoughts were running through my head, all what happened on this trip, all the beauty the country offered, I was more than grateful and I was humbled how the Nepalese had treated me. In Ghandruk; a kiss, a moment I will not forget.
On the way back to the hotel I met a man who I talked a bit to, and he asked me where I came from. -Ahh, Norway, thank you for all that you have done for us... I felt very embarrassing because I didn't know what he was talking about. Even today I don't know, but I am will find out.
Finally I met the others and we had a small sightseeing in Ghandruk; we visited two museums, the Buddhist temple and Annapurna Conservation Area Project (main office), but it was closed. First time on the trek that I saw a heliport. Cool huh?
At the dinner we had a "goodbye" party for our porters, because it was the last evening with them. We had donated some items and also they got their tips. I am grateful what they have done for us and I hope they will have a good life (as much as possible). I will never know, but maybe I will see them again?

the porters - Annapurna South in the background

Day 13 - Charmer stage to Birethanti, Nayapul, Pokhara
Walking down from Ghandruk we saw the rice fields and farmer houses. There was a whole family building a house together, most likely it was a new teahouse. The area here is just fantastic and I was thinking about -What if I moved to here; maybe I could build a vineyard? -It could be possible?
The last kilometres to Birethanti went fast, we were hungry and longing for Pokhara. After a fast lunch in Birethanti and we had a short walk to Nayapul where we took the bus to Pokhara.
In Pokhara we were lodged in end of the centre, but me and few others had to find our beds in a small hotel in the backyard.
The last days I have been thinking of flying in Pokhara, if I could find David or Olivier. In Pokhara I found commercial from a company of tandem paragliding and rang them, but I couldn't find either of them. I tried another company without success. I decided to find the landing filed and most likely Olivier too. While I was looking after paragliding office I discovered many interesting shops which I would visit the day after.
Again I met the others and we eat the dinner at Boomerang restaurant in Pokhara. I will be short because I will not recommend this place; hours to get the food, food was not very nice and the music a bit loud. So we paid and we escaped from this restaurant. Maria, Haakon and I tried a disco in the neighbourhood, but it wasn't our taste. We found cosy place, Moon Dance, but they were closing early (11pm). In fact everything was closing this hour.
Here in Pokhara (as in Kathmandu) was many beggars, we were told not to give anything to them not even to a child when asking for candies. When we returned to the hotel, 3 kids were sleeping on the sidewalk. The guides told us if we felt we needed to give anything, we should give to an organisation or a school and not to a one single person. To give some money to someone wouldn't help a lot (only one moment), but to give to a school would help more.
There are several projects going on in Nepal to help the community, and many have their own websites. It is just to find the "good" ones and then donate what you want...

Day 14 - Flying day in Pokhara
I had a feeling that something wasn't as "normal" as in Europe. Me and Ove took a taxi to the landing field. We asked the driver if this was the only landing in Pokhara. -Yes, yes, only landing. Around 9.30 we arrived and sat down and waited. After an hour paragliders coming from a mountain (Sarangkot), but they were landing everywhere. I asked a pilot who just landed and he confirmed, there are 5 landings in the area. -How normal is that? I asked him if he knew Olivier, but he didn't. Hoo, how on earth can I find Olivier. The second tandem pilot who landed I asked if he knew Olivier from Switzerland. -Oh yes, maybe you should try the other landing in the end of the lake. So we went, we even got picked up by a paraglider car which drove us to the landing. Here we waited and waited. We started to get thirsty and hungry. The landing had a small café-bar where food could be ordered. We decided to eat and leave, we had already waited 3 hours on this place; Ove ordered fried chicken and me ordered Momo (other nepalese meal). Ove got his food, but I had to wait. And I waited and waited, the boy who took my order told me that Momo will come soon. -Be patience my friend, I told my self. Finally I got my Momo and it was like always, very good taste. They surely can make food in this country (except Boomerang yesterday). After the lunch we were ready to go, then suddenly I saw a familiar tandem glider coming in for landing. -Could it be Olivier? Yes it was!
When he landed he asked me straight if I wanted to borrow his glider....Oh yes!!!!
-Ove, do you still want to fly tandem with me? I asked and yes he wanted.
Just to have this opportunity was a great feeling, in the same moment I was in heaven. We took a taxi together with Olivier to one of the 4 take-offs. Olivier didn't had more tandems that day so he flew is Mantra (solo glider). Ove and I flew 40-45 minutes, it was not easy to get up and the cloud base was only 1800 m that day. Couple of times I had to struggle to get up, but when we were on the top it was super easy and of course beautiful. Yes we were in heaven! A dream came through, flying in Himalaya! When we landed some kids wanted to pack the glider, and I let them. Olivier had told me to pay 50 Rupees, and they will pack and carry the paraglider bag to the road. No way that a 8 years old kid will carry the bag. The bag was bigger than the boy!!! The boy insisted many times, he lifted the bag and told me he was a strong boy. In the end I carried it by myself. We had few logging beers at the local pilots bar and spoke about flying and so on (the normal stuff). The time were running very fast and we had to go back again to our group. On the way back I stopped at book store and bought a bunch of books of Nepal.
I met Maria and Haakon at the Moon dance and we had a nice dinner.
Yeah another fantastic day.

Day 15 - Final glide to Kathmandu
The journey had come to an end. We packed our bag for the last time and we ate nice breakfast in Pokhara. Our bags was already on the roof of the buss, when we entered it. It was a bit sad because it was the last day in Nepal, but anyway my head is overbooked with memories. Every new experiences I have got, a taste for a different life and culture, friendship, how I saw the Nepalese lived their life, but still had pleasure of the small things. I felt a goodness from this country, which I never had felt from any other places before. I think I got good insight of the country and I have learned a lot from it.
On the road again
Jepp, the buss ride to Kathmandu is not recommended if you have heart- or back-problem, bumpy-bumpy-bump... It is about 250 km to Pokhara to Kathmandu, but it takes 5-7 hours to drive there.
Although the lunch place beside the river we saw a unique butterfly (even two of them), I had never seen such thing before. It looked like a "dead" leaves, but when it spread the wings it was fantastic colourful.

When we arrived to Kathmandu it was a bit chaotic because the road to our hotel were closed and we were in the middle of rush traffic. A policeman commanded us out of the buss and the buss had to leave with our bags (on the roof). Kitti, Andreas (I think) and one of the guide were looking for the buss and found it, they rented couple of taxi-bikes and bicycled all our bags back to us. Great effort - Thanks a millon!!!!
We ate the last dinner together at 40'000 1/2 feet - restaurant. A place where obviously other trekking or adventure people went after their journey. We wrote our names on the Yeti feet and the waiter hung it up among the other feet's.

Day 16 - Airport - Goodbye

In the morning at our hotel we were witness that an adventure team from India which had reached one of the big summits in Himalaya. There were some official handover of diploma or medals surrounded by media. It must have been huge...huh? I didn't understand which summits or what they have done to be honoured in this way.
We went to the airport and scheduled 3 hours for check-in/security etc. Easy.
Long queue for to check-in the luggage, long queue to get a stamp in the passport (out of the country), security check, hand baggage check, body-check and again hand baggage check including body-check. Mamamia!! I had to empty my whole handbag and they checked every thing of it....-I should have left some "smelly" socks in the bag :-)..!
Goodbye Nepal, thanks for your nice hospitality.





I have uploaded some pictures from the trip. I know it is many, but I had difficulties to choose. I shoot over 800 pictures during the trip and I did delete the bad onces along the way. Here are the pictures. Comments are in norwegain.